Pen Hospital, Kolkata – a fountain of empathy in a desert of despair and decay

Mohmmad Riaz, Pen Hospital
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Pen Hospital, Kolkata where the fountains still sprout pens

Kolkata’s most celebrated adoption service is not one that felicitates the process, whereby one assumes the parenting of a child from the child’s biological or legal parent(s). It is now almost eight decades old, is located bang in the middle of the city’s busiest business district, Esplanade, and is frequented by a rare breed of connoisseurs whose passion, shall we say, tests the limits of conventional logic.

Mohmmad Riaz, Pen Hospital
Mohmmad Riaz, Pen Hospital, at work

You cannot see the establishment from the main thoroughfare, hidden as it is in a cavity that is overrun with an angry undergrowth of export surplus t-shirts, faux leather purses, duplicate electronic implements and everything else that hunters from the hinterlands are wont to buy from the sidewalks. Be prepared for a jolt when you reach the destination, for it is just a few decrepit glass cupboards aired by a ceiling fan, the type of which must have gone out of service before you were even born. The rest of the period pieces that that are stuffed in every possible orifice too, are so unkempt in their dilapidation that they make the decay of the city look refreshing by comparison.

In what passes off as the main counter sits brothers Mohammad Imtiaz and Mohmmad Riaz – stoic, with weather-beaten faces that are mostly devoid of expression, breaking into a warm smile only for a select few. They go about their business with clinical precision, as stingy and acerbic with their words as the decor of their shop. And for all practical purposes, at least to the uninitiated, comes across as ones who are doing you a favour by tolerating your presence.

Mohmmad Riaz, Pen Hospital

Yet High Court Judges and Surgeons who sport seven day wait-lists for an appointment, journalists, writers and bureaucrats, regularly make the pilgrimage to the excuse of the shop, to meet the men, to celebrate their acquaintance. And if you still haven’t got what I am talking about, then know this. The establishment I am talking about is the Pen Hospital, Kolkata’s oldest, and certainly the most revered adoption service – as in one, that finds caring homes for pre-loved fountain pens! (For the unversed, the establishment was started by Samsuddin, nurtured by his son Mohmmad Sultan and is now run by the third-generation in the business). 

Mohmmad Riaz opens the Pen Hospital well after noon, does not entertain customers looking for a bargain and often leaves his counter unmanned to while away his time, chatting up his friend in the next shop, to reluctantly trudge back only when a known patron walks in. Yet, he has never charged me for any pen that I have taken to him for repairs, to the extent of replacing faulty ones for free. Some call him snide. Some think that he deliberately prices himself out of the reach of the ordinary. Some think that he is a terrible business man. All I know is that once, when I did not have the money to buy a Sheaffer pen that I particularly fancied, he had just given it to me, as a gift! Just like that – I remember him putting the cap on the pen with all the affection one can muster and hooking the clip into my shirt pocket.

Mohmmad Riaz, Pen Hospital

A Conway Stewart Churchill, a Parker Duofold in all its restrained magnificence, a Montblanc 149, a stunning piece of Japanese art in Urushi lacquer … the delectable spread that he brings out on any given day is a treat to the eye of the beholder. Fact is, perhaps, even more than his pens, he knows his connoisseurs. Lesser mortals are dispatched off with Chinese trinkets and other toys that grown up men, who suffer from the delusion of being collectors, are known to play with. That explains the reputation of indifference, of uninterested nonchalance. But to be fair to the man, he is not an insurance salesman and the sooner one realises, that in order to break into the sanctum sanctorum serious penance is required, the better. Besides, it is also a fact that gone are the days of plenty and quality vintage and antique pens, even of the pre-owned variety are extremely hard to come by these days.

The eighties and the nineties were different. Kolkata’s rich and the famous were then selling their ancestral properties to either migrate, or to move into 3BHK flats. And old, forgotten drawers were yielding stashes that had once made their foppish owners proud. Most of these pieces have already found their ways into the collections of the aficionados. Now, when their collections are bequeathed, the net savvy philistines put them up for sale in hard currency, as opposed to adoption, dollars dominating over delight. The city’s nouveau riche do not carry a pen in their shirt pockets, nor are they remotely interested in knowing the pleasures (or pains) of carrying one, and that the Pen Hospital is steadily sinking into penury is not something that bothers them – forgive them, for they know not, what they know not!

Not that Md. Riaz of the Pen Hospital is perturbed – when one deals with the gems of the past, the squalor of the present somehow fades into oblivion. But the future – now that is another story. His son has started accompanying him to the shop, and is just about getting to know the old faithful as they talk about fountain pens with the same reverence normal mortals reserve for their deities, if not describing them as the lovelorn talk of their beloved.

“Do you regret seeing decay gnawing at the edges? Will you change anything given a chance” I had asked Riazbhai once.

Mohmmad Riaz, Pen Hospital

“Not a thing, he had said. “Not many people have spent their lives dealing with the most respected of the city’s gentlemen. In my many years at the shop, I have never had a customer short change me. I have never had anyone break the trust and faith imposed on them. A fountain pen collector is a quintessential Bhadrolok, a typical Bengali Babu. It has been my good fortune that I have had the pleasure of their company and I pray to God that my son may continue with the blessings that were showered on me”.

There is only one thing to say after that.



10 Replies to “Pen Hospital, Kolkata – a fountain of empathy in a desert of despair and decay”

  1. Dear Chawm,
    Gems are always hidden and true connoisseurs will go in search of it. Kudos to you to have brought them to light. I hope the fountain pen lovers of Kolkata, and all over India and elsewhere will visit them and experience them whenever they are in Kolkata. I would like to certainly do my best when I visit Kolkata next.
    I am remind of a parable:
    In the city of Bagdad lived Hakeem, the wise one, and many people went to him for counsel, 
    which he gave freely to all, asking nothing in return.
    There came to him a young man who had spent much but got little, and said: 
    “Tell me , wise one, what shall I do to receive the most for that which I spend ?”
    Hakeem answered, “A thing that is bought or sold has no value unless it contains that which cannot be bought or sold, Look for the Priceless Ingredient”.
    “But what is this Priceless Ingredient ?” asked the young man.

    Spoke then the wise one : 
    “My son, the priceless ingredient of every product or service in the market-place is the Honour and Integrity of him who makes or provides it. Consider his name before you buy”.

    From what I read I think Pen Hospital has the priceless ingredient!

  2. Liked the topic as you venture into the pen pilgrimages of the old Calcutta. I visited this shop and the place itself carrying the vintage in its worn out body. But their collection is awesome. Thank you for this well written article. Hope more pen fans will visit this destination due to this piece.

  3. Very nice. I have the habit of writing with fountain by giving pressure. Not only fountain pen but also any writing instrument. Will you recommend me any fountain pen with not so heavy body and no so light body.

    1. may suggest that you try out the new ebonite fountain pen that has been launched by Click? it is champion class as a daily writer, is reasonably priced and is as Indian as it gets 🙂

  4. Interesting story. I read about this place earlier but the thing is, i hear some negative reviews. but now as your certification for this place comes through i will try to visit this place with open mind.

  5. The pens I bought from him till now depended on luck, wingsung was good,artex was bad and he will not let bargain even if u buy pens from him for long time too, if you don’t get pen u r searching for long time near u or online then only visit him ,this is my personal opinion

  6. Well written but poorly edited. It breaks my heart when gems like this aren’t given the respect they deserve. And by gems, I mean articles about the truly rare and precious.


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